If you have a Uniden R1 or Uniden R3, you can change the settings to give yourself better performance, filter out more false alerts, change the display color to match your vehicle’s interior, and basically tweak it to what you prefer.
Now there’s no universal “best” settings for everyone of course since what’s best depends on where you drive and even your own personal preferences. That’s why they gave us options. 🙂
You can download the R1 manual or the R3 manual and read over the details. Rather than just duplicating the manual here (which is a bit dated now), in this article I want to go into a bit more explanation so you can better understand the benefits of the different settings, their pros and cons, and which one you should choose. Then at the very end, I’ll share with you the settings that I run. 🙂
This guide is current as of firmware 1.65 and will be updated as new firmware updates are released. (Last updated June 2024.)
Functions of All the Different Buttons:
- Power: Turn the detector on or off
- Menu: Enter into the settings menu
- Long press (R3 only) will change between Highway / City / Advanced modes
- Vol -: Reduce the volume
- Go backwards through the menu options
- Vol +: Increase the volume
- Go forwards through the menu options
- Mute / Dim:
- Mute: Press once during any alert to mute the alert
- Lock out a false alert: (R3 only) Press twice during a stationary X or K band false alert to teach the detector that this is a false alert. It will remember this signal and automatically mute it for you in the future. (You can lock out Ka band alerts too if you enable the option in the menu first.)
- Delete a RLC or Speed Camera: (R3 only) Long press during a red light camera or speed camera alert and it will prompt you to delete that particular alert from the detector’s database and not alert you to it again. Short press once to confirm. Watch a video demo.
- Adjust brightness: Press and hold when no alert is present to change the display brightness
- Bright
- Dim
- Dimmer
- Dark: Display is disabled and only lights up when an alert is present. When no alert is present, there will be a blinking dot that moves around in the bottom of the screen so you can verify that the detector is on. Watch a video demo.
- Off: Display and buttons are completely turned off at all times, giving you a fully blacked out detector at all times. Your audio will play normally still, of course.
- Auto (R3): Automatically adjust between a brighter display during the day and a darker display at night.
- Mark (R3): Manually mark this location so that your detect alerts you every time you come back by it. Useful to mark locations that you know are regularly used as speed traps, for example.
- City (R1): Change between Highway / City / Advanced modes
Video Walkthrough
If you’d like a video walkthrough of the settings and programming the detectors, here they are for both detectors.
Note: Newer firmware versions have added some additional features so be sure to read through this guide if you see any settings in your detector that you don’t see covered in these videos.
Settings & Menu Options:
Highway / City / Advanced
This lets you dial back the sensitivity of K band and X band to reduce false alerts around town. Ka band is always unaffected.
- Highway: (default) Full sensitivity on Ka, K, and X band.
- City: Full sensitivity on Ka band, reduced sensitivity on K and X band.
- Advanced: You can individually dial back the sensitivity on X, K, or Ka band anywhere from 100% sensitivity to 30% sensitivity in 10% increments. Helpful if you’re getting too much range and want to dial back the performance. (City Mode would be the equivalent of X/K dialed back to ~18% sensitivity which is even lower than what you can select in Advanced mode so City mode is the lowest sensitivity option.)
Note: These are not different settings profiles. Switching to Advanced Mode doesn’t unlock any other features other than giving you more granular control of X/K/Ka band sensitivity. For K band sensitivity testing between Highway and City mode, see here.
GPS (R3 only)
Enable the R3’s GPS-related features and false alert filters.
- On (default)
- Off
Speed Camera (R3 only)
Alert you to speed cameras ahead.
You can mute speed camera alerts by pressing the mute button. You can delete them by double-tapping the mute button (and pressing a third time to confirm).
- On (default)
- Off
Redlight Cam (R3 only)
Alert you to redlight cameras ahead.
You can mute RLC alerts by pressing the mute button. You can delete them by double-tapping the mute button (and pressing a third time to confirm).
- On (default)
- Off
RLC Q-Ride (R3 only)
High speed muting for redlight cameras. This is useful for muting RLC/speedcam alerts on nearby surface streets when you’re driving down the highway.
You can mute individual alerts by pressing the mute button. You can delete them by double-tapping the mute button (and pressing a third time to confirm).
- Off (default)
- 50 – 85 mph (80 – 140 km/h) in 5 mph (10 km/h) increments
Voice
Voice announcements for radar and laser alerts (ie. “Ka band”) to make it easier to identify different bands by sound. This is especially useful while you’re learning what the beeps for each individual band sound like.
This will also speak the individual menu options when you scroll through.
- On (default)
- Off
Ka Freq Voice
Verbally announces the exact frequency of Ka band radar alerts. Useful for identifying the frequency of the Ka band signal without needing to look at the display. The detector will beep normally for a moment, announce the frequency, and then resume alerting.
- On
- Off (default)
X Band
Enable or disable X band.
X band has been mostly phased out around the country. It’s still actively in use in OH and southern NJ and a few small areas around the country.
To find out what bands are in use in your area, click here.
- On
- Off (default)
K Band
Enable or disable K band.
K band is in use virtually everywhere around the country. The notable exception is virtually all of CA where you can disable K band and cut off the false alerts you’d otherwise have to deal with using the detector’s filters.
To find out what bands are in use in your area, click here.
- On (default)
- Off
Ka Band
Enable or disable Ka band.
This is a very common police radar band and it’s in use nationwide. Definitely best to leave this on.
- On (default)
- Off
Laser
Enable or disable alerts when you get shot by laser.
K POP
67 ms K band POP detection.
K band POP is virtually nonexistent in real life and it’s best to leave this turned off for reduced false alerts. However, turning it on (and disabling the K Filter altogether) will give you maximum performance on K band since the detector is constantly scanning for brief K band now. This won’t be a good idea in most situations due to the increased false alerts, but if you’re out in the middle of nowhere and require the absolute maximum detection possible on K band, you can turn this on.
If you’d like to see a demo of K POP detection on the R3, click here.
- On
- Off (default)
MRCD
The MultaRadar CD and CT are low powered radar guns that are primarily used overseas. However, we are now seeing them here around Edmonton in Alberta, Quebec, Chicago, NYC, PA, AZ, LA, and in MD near Washington D.C. See more location info here. If you enable MRCD detection, you will be able to detect these radar sources. Video demo.
- On
- Off (default)
Gatso
The Gatso RT3 and RT4 are also low powered radar guns that are primarily used overseas. However, we are now seeing them here around Edmonton in Alberta, Quebec, IA, IL, OH, CA, CO, NY, and MD near Washington D.C. See more location info here. If you enable Gatso detection, you will be able to detect these radar sources.
- On
- Off (default)
Ka POP
67 ms Ka band POP detection.
Ka band POP is also nearly nonexistent in real life so it’s generally better to turn this off. Testing has also shown that POP on reduces Ka range.
- On
- Off (default)
K Filter
Filter out blind spot false alerts from other nearby vehicles. Definitely run with this on.
- On (default)
- Off
Ka Filter
Filter out false alerts on Ka band. Turning this on does affect performance, but only in a very minor way. It slows down reactivity by about 0.1s, so not much at all. Even with it on, the detector is still very fast. It has much less of an impact to performance than Escort’s RDR or the V1’s Ka Guard does. If you’d like maximum performance, turn this off.
- On
- Off (default)
TSF
The traffic sensor filter is designed to filter out K band traffic sensors along the highway in some areas. Enabling it does slow down reactivity on K band and negatively affect range somewhat. However, if you have traffic sensors on your highways and experience regular and repeated K band falses from them, turn TSF on. Additionally, some people also like using this option to further help filter out some blind spot falses as well.
- On
- Off (default)
K Block 1
This filter is designed specifically to help filter out BSM falses from common vehicles like Hondas, Acuras, and Chryslers. Enabling this filter will affect K band signals, real or false, between 24.194 – 24.204 GHz. The R1 and R3 false to these cars constantly so enabling this will help quiet down the detector considerably.
This will also affect any legitimate police radar signals transmitting with this frequency range which is the risk. Normally legit K band will be closer to 24.125 or 24.150, but it can transmit as high as 24.250. Now that said, given that the detector will otherwise false a lot without this filter, for most people it is well worth the risk to help quiet down the detector.
- On (default): Fully block and hide all signals within this frequency range
- Weak: Filter only weak signals, alert to stronger ones
- Mute: Mute signals within this frequency range, but show them on screen
- Off
K Block 2
This filter is designed specifically to help filter out 24.168’ish BSM falses from common vehicles like Hondas, Acuras, and GM vehicles. Like K Block 1, enabling this filter will affect K band signals, real or false, but between 24.166 – 24.170 GHz.
- On (default): Fully block and hide all signals within this frequency range
- Weak: Filter only weak signals, alert to stronger ones
- Mute: Mute signals within this frequency range, but show them on screen
- Off
K Block 3
This filter is designed specifically to help filter out 24.123’ish BSM falses from Mazda CX-5’s. Like K Block 1, enabling this filter will affect K band signals, real or false, but between 24.123 – 24.124 GHz.
- On (default): Fully block and hide all signals within this frequency range
- Weak: Filter only weak signals, alert to stronger ones
- Mute: Mute signals within this frequency range, but show them on screen
- Off
K Wide / Narrow
This gives you the option to slightly narrow the range of frequencies that the detectors scans for on K band, cutting out frequencies where you’re less likely to see legitimate K band radar, thus helping reduce your number of false alerts.
Police officers are allowed to transmit throughout the entire range that K Wide covers so if K band is actively used in your area, it’s best to run with K Wide. If not, you can consider switching to K Narrow.
- K Wide: (default) 24.050 – 24.250 GHz
- K Narrow: 24.080 – 24.200 GHz
Ka Wide / Narrow / Segmentation
Alert to all the entire Ka band spectrum or only the Ka frequencies where police generally operate on.
- Ka Wide: 33.4 GHz – 36.0 GHz
- Ka Narrow: (default) 33.8 +/- 100 MHz, 34.7 +/- 120 MHz, 35.5 +/- 100 MHz
- Ka Segmentation:
- Ka 1: 33.399 – 33.705
- Ka 2: 33.705 – 33.903 (MPH radar guns at 33.8)
- Ka 3: 33.903 – 34.191
- Ka 4: 34.191 – 34.587 (Stalkers that drift low)
- Ka 5: 34.587 – 34.803 (Stalker radar guns at 34.7)
- Ka 6: 34.803 – 35.163 (Stalkers that drift high)
- Ka 7: 35.163 – 35.379
- Ka 8: 35.379 – 35.613 (Kustom and Decatur radar guns at 35.5)
- Ka 9: 35.613 – 35.829
- Ka 10: 35.829 – 36.001
Ka Narrow is generally recommended for both ease of use and maximum performance (test here). Originally we were told that the detector is always scanning in Ka Wide and Ka Narrow adjusts only what frequencies the detector alerts to, not what it actually scans for. It turns out it does scan for a narrower range of frequencies which is why we see improved performance.
In general, Ka Narrow is fine for most of the US and Ka Wide is recommended if you encounter out of tune guns such as if you drive in New York.
Note: We’ve found that the 34.7 sweep actually scans up to 34.850 in Ka Narrow, possibly even higher.
Now if you want complete control over the Ka Segments, as of firmware 1.31, we now have 10 individual segments to choose from, just like other manufacturers offer. In order to access the different segments, you’ll need to switch your detector from Ka Wide or Ka Narrow to Ka Segmentation and then the 10 segments will show up in the menu.
Finally, if you’re wondering specifically which additional segments are recommended for different States, beyond the traditional 2/5/8, please see this post.
MRCD/KA / Signal Priority
If the detector is detecting multiple signals, you can choose which signal is given audible and visual priority.
- MRCD/Ka Priority: (default) Gives you band priority alerts where if you’re seeing multiple signals, alert priority will be given to MRCD, Ka, K, & X in that order. This is nice because MRCD is usually close range with minimal alert distance.
- Ka/MRCD Priority: Similar to above, but lets you prioritize Ka band alerts over MRCD. Alert priority here is Ka, MRCD, K, X band in that order.
- Signal Priority: Gives alert priority to the strongest (usually closest) signal.
So for example if you’re getting a strong K band signal and a weak Ka band signal, Signal Priority will alert you to the K band signal while Ka Priority will focus on the Ka band signal. If you have the all threat display option enabled (discussed next), the secondary signal will show up on screen next to the primary signal, but the audio will always be focused on the primary signal.
Mute Mem
By default the detector will only allow you to lock out X and K band sources. This makes sense since there is generally where you’ll find your stationary false alerts. However, some people have speed signs in their area that transmit on Ka band or neighbors with satellite dishes that cause Ka falses so if you’d to be able to lock out Ka band sources too, you can tell the detector to let you lock out X, K, and Ka alerts.
- X & K: (default) Lock out only X and K band signals.
- X, K, Ka: Add the ability to lock out Ka band & MRCD too.
Be careful when using Ka lockouts. It can be pretty risky and most manufacturers don’t even allow this option at all because of the fact that Ka alerts are almost always real. If you want to use Ka lockouts, such as you have a Ka band speed sign or satellite dish that falses your R3, make sure you’re 100% confident the Ka band alert is being triggered by a stationary false source that you see every time you pass by before you lock the signal out.
All Threat Display
When the detector is picking up more than one signal, it can show the band and signal strength of any additional signals (up to 3 more) on the left side of the screen where the speedometer/voltmeter would normally go. When only one signal is present, that left side of the screen stays as a speedometer/voltmeter.
- On
- Off (default)
Color
Choose what color display you’d like. The options include:
- Red (default)
- White
- Purple
- Blue
- Amber
- Green
- Pink
- Gray
This can be helpful to match your vehicle’s interior, for example.
Mode / Time (R3 only) / Scan
Change what is showing up on screen when you’re not getting an alert.
- Mode (default) (R1 & R3) will display the words Highway, City, or Advanced on screen.
- Time (R3 only) will display the current time, determined by GPS.
- Scan (R1 & R3) will display an animated heartbeat scanner on screen.
Display (R3 Only)
Choose what you want to be displayed on the left side of the screen including:
- Speed (default)
- Speed and Compass
- Compass
- Voltage
- Altitude
My preference is either speed or speed + compass. I like speed and compass, but sometimes when you’re stationary, especially when you first start your car and haven’t started moving, the compass just spins around and I find this annoying and unhelpful, but the compass is helpful while driving.
Speed Unit (R3 Only)
Display your speed in MPH or KM/H and distances in feet or meters.
- MPH (default)
- KM/H
Tones for X / K / MRCD / Ka / Bogey / Laser
Choose between 12 different alert tones for any of the radar bands or for laser. Scroll through the different options to listen to what the alert tones sound like.
The new bogey alert option has 5 different alert tones that you can choose between that will alert you to the presence of an additional Ka signal (bogey) detected when the detector was already alerting to a previously detected signal.
Auto Mute
After 3 seconds, the detector will drop the volume to a reduced level, set in the next option. This is helpful for quieting the detector down after it gets your attention initially, but it may be too quiet for some. Some people also leave this disabled to make it easier to record the rampup and beeps on their dashcam for sharing later. Auto mute applies to radar alerts, not laser.
- On (default)
- Off
Auto Mute Volume
Adjust how loud or quiet the auto mute option reduces the volume level to. Very handy if the quietest option is too quiet, for example.
Auto Mute Volume: 0 – 5 (default 2)
Note: If you have your normal volume and auto mute volume set to the same levels, you won’t actually hear the volume go down. If you enable the auto mute and it seems to not be working, double check these settings. 😉
Dark Mode
You have the ability to adjust how bright the display is if you set it into dark mode. The display will be off in dark mode (with a blinking dot moving at the bottom of the screen) until you get an alert. When an alert pops up, how bright do you want the display to be?
- Bright
- Dim
- Dimmer (default)
Auto Dim Setting (R3 Only)
Adjust the settings for the auto dim brightness level.
Note: You must first select “Auto” as the display brightness in order to have this option show up in the menu.
- Bright time: Adjust what time the detector switches to the bright display in the morning. Select between 5:30am – 7:30am in 15 min increments.
- Bright level: Bright (default), Dim, Dimmer
- Dim time: Adjust what time the detector switches to the dim display in the evening. Select between 5pm – 8pm in 15 min increments.
- Dim level: Bright, Dim (default), Dimmer, Dark, Off
Backlight
Makes the front two buttons underneath the display glow from behind so you can find them more easily at night. You can turn it off if you want a stealthier look.
- On (default)
- Off
Quiet Ride (R3 Only)
Low speed muting. This automatically mutes any and all X band and K band alerts, whether they’re real alerts or false alerts, when traveling below the speed you select. This feature is incredibly valuable around town while sitting in traffic or at stop lights to help deal with false alerts.
- Off (default)
- 5 – 90 mph (10 – 140 km /h) in 5 mph (10 km/h) increments
Q-Ride MRCD (R3 Only)
Individually control if MRCD alerts are also affected by quiet ride’s low speed muting. MRCD photo radar is often run on city streets and at close range so you can choose to have quiet ride disabled for MRCD so it alerts you at low speed, even if traditional radar is being muted.
- Off
- On
LimitSpeed (R3 Only)
Audibly warn you when you travel over a preset speed. Helpful to remind you when you’re traveling above the speed limit, for example.
- Off (default)
- 50 – 100 mph (80 – 160 km/h) in 5 mph (10 km /h) increments
GMT (R3 Only)
Choose your time zone and the time will automatically be set via GPS.
- GMT-05:00: Eastern
- GMT-06:00: Central
- GMT-07:00: Mountain
- GMT-08:00: Pacific
DST (R3 Only)
Daylight savings time adjustment. If you’ve set your time zone but the clock is off by 1 hour, change this setting.
- On
- Off (default)
BAT Warning
Audible warning when your battery drops too low (below 11v). Helpful as a reminder if you’re running your vehicle with the engine off and the battery level starts dropping pretty low.
- On
- Off (default)
BAT Saver (R3 Only)
If your detector is plugged into a power source that doesn’t turn off when you turn off your car, turn this on so your detector doesn’t drain your car battery.
It turns the detector off when you’ve been stationary (parked) for 1 hour.
It also turns the detector off if the GPS hasn’t connected for an hour (like when you’re in a parking deck or garage).
- On
- Off (default)
Self Test
Run a self-diagnostic test every time you start your detector. You can turn this off for a faster and quieter bootup process.
- On (default)
- Off
Factory Reset?
Reset your detector’s settings to factory defaults.
If you’re running the R3, this does NOT delete your GPS lockouts or manually marked locations.
Delete All Mute? (R3 Only)
Delete all of your GPS lockouts.
Delete All User? (R3 Only)
Delete all of your manually marked locations that you created by pressing the Mark button.
Ver.
Tells you the firmware and DSP firmware version of the detector.
You can check for the current firmware version here.
DB Ver (R3 Only)
Date (version) of the current redlight camera database.
General Recommended R3 Settings
If you’re wondering what settings you should run, I’d recommend that you read over this guide and take the time to understand what each option does so you can make an informed decision. If you’d like a quick general recommendation that would work for most everyone nationwide, here’s a list of generic recommended settings. These are designed to be safe, give you good performance and filtering, and be applicable all across the country.
Note: I put a (*) in front of every option that I’ve changed from the factory defaults.
- *Advanced: X Band 100%, *K Band 70%, Ka Band 100%
- GPS: On
- Speed Camera: On
- Redlight Camera: On
- *RLC Q-Ride: 60mph
- Voice: On
- Ka Freq Voice: Off
- X Band: Off (If you drive in OH or NJ, turn this on.)
- K Band: On (If you drive in CA, you can typically turn this off.)
- Ka Band: On
- Laser: On
- K POP: Off
- MRCD: Off (unless you drive in Alberta, Quebec, Chicago, NYC, or MD)
- Gatso: Off (unless you drive in Alberta, Quebec, IA, IL, OH, CA, CO, NY, or MD near D.C.)
- Ka POP: Off
- K Filter: On
- Ka Filter: Off
- TSF: On
- *K Block 1: Weak
- *K Block 2: Weak
- *K Block 3: Weak
- K Wide
- *Ka Segmentation: Enable Ka 2/4/5/6/8
- MRCD/Ka Priority
- Ka Priority
- Mute Mem: X & K
- *All Threat: On
- Color: Red
- *Scan: Time Display
- Display: Speed
- Speed Unit: mph
- Tones: default
- X Band Tone: 1
- K Band Tone: 2
- *MRCD Tone: 7
- Ka Band Tone: 3
- *Ka Bogey Tone: 1
- Laser Tone: 5
- Laser Tone: 4
- Auto Mute: On
- Auto Mute Vol: 2
- Dark Mode: Dimmer
- *Auto Dim Settings: 7am, Bright, 6pm, Dimmer (adjust to what’s appropriate for your area)
- Backlight: On
- *Quiet Ride: 25mph
- Q-Ride MRCD: Off
- Limit Speed: Off
- *GMT – (Choose your specific time zone)
- *DST: On
- *BAT Warning: On
- *BAT Saver: On
- *Self Test: Off
Vortex’s Personal R3 Settings
Here’s the settings that I run myself. These settings are not necessarily what’s best for you, but it’s what I typically use nowadays around here where it’s almost exclusively Ka and Laser. MRCD is not in use here and K band is very rare around here, so unless I’m out on a road trip to somewhere new, I really like the detector extra quiet on K band, especially when someone else is in the car with me, so I filter K band pretty aggressively.
Note: I put a (*) in front of every option that I’ve changed from the factory defaults.
- *City or Advanced Mode with K Band at 70% if I want better K band performance
- GPS: On
- Speed Camera: On
- Redlight Camera: On
- *RLC Q-Ride: 50mph
- *Voice: Off
- *Ka Freq Voice: On
- X Band: Off
- K Band: On
- Ka Band: On
- Laser: On
- K POP: Off
- MRCD: Off
- Gatso: Off
- Ka POP: Off
- K Filter: On
- Ka Filter: Off
- *TSF: On
- *K Block 1: Weak
- *K Block 2: Weak
- *K Block 3: Weak
- *K Narrow
- *Ka Segmentation: Enable Ka 2/4/5/6/7/8
- *Ka/MRCD Priority
- Mute Mem: X & K
- *All Threat: On
- *Color: Blue
- *Scan: Time Display
- *Display: Speed + Compass
- Speed Unit: mph
- *Tones: most default, MRCD 7, Ka Bogey 5
- Auto Mute: On
- Auto Mute Vol: 2
- *Dark Mode: Bright
- *Auto Dim Settings: 7:15am, Bright, 6:30pm, Dimmer (This varies throughout the year)
- Backlight: On
- *Quiet Ride: 35mph
- Q-Ride MRCD: Off
- Limit Speed: Off
- *GMT – 8 Hour
- *DST: On
- *BAT Warning: On
- BAT Saver: Off
- *Self Test: Off
If you need to purchase either detector, you can purchase the R1 here and you can purchase the R3 here.
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Uniden R9
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Thank you!! Exactly what I was looking for. I love the R3, but honestly feel semi guilty now when I look at my V1 on my desk. I know I have a more sensitive detector, but it has served me very well for like a decade. Since your in touch with Uniden I have some recommendations at this time.
1. They need to get better suction cups – mine was constantly falling or hanging by one. The big suction mount is very nice but huge
2. They need to see why the R3 gets so hot which will shorten the life of the detector – someone on you tube did a test and mine is very warm to the touch
3. Keep the firmware coming – says a ton about their commitment to the product
4. Include a permanent mount
5. Sounds seem odd – sent links to two of my friends about getting one and both commented they hated the sound
6. Most important – add arrows (I would pay more to have them)
7. Offer an upgrade program if they do come up with arrows, (one can hope)
Overall I am very happy with my unit. Need to test my sunglasses so that might make me slightly annoyed.
Great post and very informative. Have decided to buy an R3 once the availability improves.
Noted once error — the Ka band frequency range:
“Ka Wide: 33.4 GHz – 33.6 GHz”
Author
oops lol, thanks for the heads up!
Just got my r3 used the recommended settings but passed 4 cops highway and didnt beep then passed 2 cops in the city parked and didnt beep ? What can be wrong ?
Author
100% normal. Radar detectors are not police car detectors. They are radar detectors. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cErm_Xi6Xow
Can I please ask you if the k band filter will slow r3 down alot? I have k band in my area.
Author
Virtually none. Leave the filter on so that you pay attention when it goes off. You’ve got LOTS of performance with the R3. What you need is to trust it when it goes off. 😉
Mrcd Detection R-3 or future model coming?
Author
I haven’t heard anything. Check out the upcoming Radenso Pro SE M-edition for MRCD detection: https://www.rdforum.org/showthread.php?t=60845
I would like to speak to an expert regarding radar and laser on human bodies. Can you email a telephone number.
Author
I’m not the person to talk to on the subject. I’m not sure who to point you towards either. Perhaps a scientist or university where this is studied specifically?
I just picked up a MAX 360, does it pay to return it for the R3. Most of my driving is in the NY city area.
Author
That’s a really common question and it’s one I find tough to answer. Do you want the arrows? Do you want the autolockouts? Do you want the Bluetooth and app features? Have you found those features helpful so far?
The Uniden has better long range performance. Have you been lacking range with your 360?
The Uniden is still new and there’s some bug fixes and firmware updates that are coming out.
The Max360 has a firmware update promised to help address some issues too, but we’re been waiting a while for that.
I love all the features of the MAX360, that the main reason why i purchased it. I just which it had a bit more range.
Author
Welcome to the unending search for the ultimate radar detector. ?
Range is not everything……
First time on this site
Very lnformitive!!
Just got the R3 ! It’s awesome
Put my redline in the drawer
Find it hard to read the manual
Expected a comprehensive book like !
Author
Congrats on your new R3! 😀
Hi, my uniden r3 won’t display correct time
-5 should be the correct selection for eastern time wit DST SET TO ON ????
Hi, my uniden r3 won’t display correct time
-5 should be the correct selection for eastern time wit DST SET TO ON ????
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Author
If you have a GPS lock and thus the time is being displayed, but you’ve selected your time zone and it’s off by an hour, change the DST option.
Hey Vortex,thanks for all your time and effort for us out here.Quick question sir,is the audio jack for the R1 and R3 considered a mono or stereo jack?I just tried hookong up my external escort speaker i had running on my redline but i got no sound at all.Thanks for your time.
Have you solved this problem – I just did the entire install and am getting no sound – pretty frustrating … hope its an easy fix
Has anyone figured this out? My R3 just arrived today and I plan to hardwire install this weekend with the powered Escort speaker so I’ll report back. Between my ham radio gear and my podcast rig, I have about a thousand and one audio jack adapters laying around, so I’m sure I’ll find one that works. Will report back! I like my music LOUD and have been spoiled with the Redline and Escort Live over Bluetooth so this will be an adjustment.
Howdy,
I saw your review of the Uniden R3 and after doing some additional research went ahead and ordered it a couple of days ago and received it today. I only found out today after recently relocating to California for work and driving around with an Escort 9500ix on my windshield for the past three months that it is illegal.
Blendmount seem to be pretty overpriced for their RVM mounts, so wondered what the options are. I ordered a RVM mount for a vehicle a few years ago but cannot find them for anything. They’re mount was very similar to the Blendmount but a whole lot less expensive. Are there any alternatives to the Blendmount that isn’t a windshield mount?
I also wanted to say thanks for all of your hard work. I will donate as I am able. Thanks again.
Great post. I would really like to run Ka narrow but I live in NY. Where in NY are people seeing out of tune radar? I know most of the areas I travel they use 34.7 and the NYSP in particular seem to run very low power because they are much harder to detect then other agencies. So if there out of tune I would see readings greater then 34.82 GHz and less then 34.58 GHz?
Live near Albany, NY. Primary threats here are 34.7 and some 35.5. No K band. Haven’t run into out of tune guns, in fact, most have been pretty well centered on 34.7 and 35.5. Ran my Redline 2/5/8 without issue for a long time after running non-segmented for a few months first. Since the R3’s 34.7 scanning width in Ka narrow mode is wider then the Red line’s seg 5, I will likely run Ka narrow when my R3 arrives next week. In the end, it’s whatever you feel comfortable width. Perhaps you put it on wide for a few months and take note of how well the radar units are tuned in your area like I did first.
Thank you for all you do… For input to Uniden, I find their update procedure a little challenging.. I’m not a real computer guy. I use one everyday at work but unzipping and Bat files are a little much.. If they could streamline the update procedure that would be awesome.. With that said, as a long time Escort user, I can’t put into words how happy i am that they even do updates to support their products, but if I can gripe just a little, the streamlining of the process would be great..
Author
Agreed. That’s something people are bringing up a lot and would be a good next step for them to address.
Thanks for all of the updates and great info! I just purchased my R3 after owning an escort for decades! It was worth it’s weight in gold but woefully outdated. Your youtube vids convinced me it was time to come into the 21st century! haha Thanks again:)
I just wanted to let you know that you are the best & most helpful person that explains everything with so much clarity and speed. You get to the meat of the coconut without going around the world telling folks about things that are not prevalent. I think if not companies are not paying you they should big time as you best I have ever heard as a speaker and products you talk about. Great future Dickson Kidd Harpersville, Alabama 35078
Author
Thank you very much! I really enjoy it and am grateful that me doing what I love is also so helpful to others. 🙂
As for companies paying me, while I could go that route, I’d prefer not being sponsored or financially tied to any particular manufacturer. Being unbiased is really important to me so it’s something I choose to avoid. Instead I’ve set things up where I can be financially supported, but it really doesn’t matter which brand or product I recommend. When people buy a product using my affiliate links, watch my YouTube videos with ads, or support me on Patreon, this helps me to do what I do while still remaining objectively neutral towards different brands and manufacturers. 🙂
Can you tell me what is a good setup for the NC area using the R3…
Author
If you’d like personalized one-on-one support, you can book a private session with me here: https://www.vortexradar.com/private-sessions/
Vortex, you are the best! I have watched a ton of your youtube videos, read your reviews and instructions and learned so much. I just ordered my R3 from your site, I chatted with a guy who was really nice and helpful. Other buyers need to beware some of these sites are saying they have stock on the R3 but they don’t (radar roy site for sure is doing this). You’ll spend weeks waiting if your not careful. Mine is already in transit, can’t wait. Already have a buyer for my V1. 🙂
Can’t change my time zone. I live in IL, Central Time Zone
I’d like to suggest another option in addition to “General Recommended Settings” and “My Personal Settings”, and maybe it would be called something like “New Field Test Settings”, meaning that you would use these settings after a new purchase for an extended period of time, to understand your local situations and radar utilization, and then on an as-demonstrated basis, start implementing filters.
The thought being is that despite what is logged by users in the state, one might hit an off-tune gun (or such) that is very localized, and not published in any state database.
Another name one could call it (not seriously) is: “Cover my a$$ for everything, and then let me turn off what I learn over time I don’t need.”
Just bought a Uniden R3 and so far I think its a great detector. I also have a Escort Max 360 and Beltronics Magnum. I really like the Escort Max 360 because of the arrows and autolockouts. The Beltronics has really good range but is just too noisy for me, so i am selling it on Ebay. The Uniden saved my butt this morning on the way to work. It signaled like an IO shot and then went to constant on. I wasn’t sure where the signal was coming from, so I slowed and then turned off. The signal disappeared but a few moments later blasted me again. Then a few seconds later a Sheriff cruiser passed me by. I was pretty pleased that my R3 was working well. The only thing I did miss was the arrows on my 360, as it would have shown me that the threat was behind me. Anyways, I love it. I also wanted to say that I have been watching your videos for some time. They videos and your website have been instrumental in peaking my interest in radar detectors. Your videos have been a tremendous help. They are the best videos out there when it comes to radar detectors. I also loved watching Radar Roy. Thank you
Hi there Vortex,
I really appreciate your YouTube channel for schooling me on radar in such a short period of time… Your videos are always well produced and easy to understand. Many thanks!!
I live in Northern California (Bay Area) and recently picked up an R1 which I’m loving so far. Have it mounted on a Scoshe magnetic mount just to the left of center on my 18′ Subaru WRX’s dash. It clears the wipers and hood scoop and the rear-eye is unobstructed towards the rear. My car has BSD and Rear-Cross-Traffic Alert.
I have had more Laser hits than Ka-band hits and wanted to get your opinion about what is happening in the following situations:
R1 alerts to Laser in dense, nighttime rush-hour traffic while merging onto the freeway. No LEO spotted and no place for them to sit and point. Was behind a mid-2000s Lexus and may have had a big-rig behind me but can’t recall. This was five lanes of wall to wall traffic moving less than 15 mph.
A few hours later…
R1 alerts to Laser in nighttime freeway driving. there is congestion in all lanes, but everyone is moving right around the speed limit in the leftmost lanes. It was raining and I didn’t see any LEO, although I may have had one behind me as the headlights looked like a new-model Ford SUV. No radar hits at all, just laser…
May this have anything to do with those systems that auto-track license plates for out-of-date registrations, warrants, and the like…? Trying to understand if this is even LE or maybe some other technology out there…
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
btw, for anyone curious this was Hwy 880 through Oakland just north of Oracle Arena.
Author
Maybe a vehicle up ahead with laser-based collision avoidance systems? I’ve noticed Mazda SUV’s, Infinitis, and Volvos are the biggest culprits. Cell phones can sometimes also trigger laser alerts if the detector can see the screen.
Sounds good! Thanks so much for your reply and quick shipping of the R1!
Hi,
Just picked up an R3 but not sure it is working correctly. I am in Northern California and only had KA Segment on for bands 5, 8. Came up behind a CHP SUV and got a few chirps on the KA Band. Then nothing. Even as I got even with him and then in front of him as he exited the freeway, nothing.
This morning got a KA hit and CHP was parked on opposite side of freeway with car pulled over. Got a couple of chirps when I could almost make out where he was pulled over and then nothing as I passed.
I have a 2014 Mercedes E350 and wonder if the front windshield has factory installed tinting or the solar deflection that could be effecting the Uniden R3 severely? Not sure how to tell if windshield has the solar deflection.
Appreciate any insights you can offer.
Author
Hey David, yeah it is very possible that your windshield could be impacting your radar detector’s ability to work properly. See this video for more info: https://youtu.be/Dd5YyLgyw5E
If you test and find that your windshield is at fault and you don’t have an opening in your windshield where radar can pass through, you’ll need to get a remote mount radar detector installed in your grill area instead.
A street by my house has a K Band Speed Sign. I turned on K Band and tested the R3 while parked 1/2 mile away and the signal is passing through the windshield no problem.
If the windshield were the issue would it effect K band differently than KA band?
Also, my 2014 E350 also has Radar Cruise Control and I am thinking this could be the issue. Do you have any experience or know any one with Radar Cruise Control having similar issues?
Going to test the same sign while driving.
Author
Ah nice. If it’s detecting K band just fine, Ka band would be the same. It shouldn’t be different per band like that. If you’re seeing the detector sometimes not alert the way you think it should, it’s likely instant on or something along those lines.
As for radar cruise control, that’s a really mixed bag. There’s lots of combinations of detectors, vehicles, and so on. Sometimes it does cause issues, yeah, and sometimes it doesn’t.
Did another test today with the K Band running the Dynamic Cruise Control and it worked just fine.
CHP cruisers normally runs with the KA Band Radar on all the time and no Instant ON as far as I know. Guessing my detector is defective. Will test this week with everything enabled to see if KA band works at all this week.
I use the R1 for 6 months and i still learn new tricks by reading your detailed and excellent review. Now that firmware version is now 1.36 , february 22 2018 , would you refresh this article , based on many new features , it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks a lot.
The latest Firmware Version that is posted on unidensupport is V 1.31. Where is 1.36? I just received mine 3/1/18 and it is loaded with 1.31 still.
Author
https://www.rdforum.org/index.php?threads/71784/
just got my R3 and updated…. plan on using it on my bike. I want to run and external audio. Does the the R3 audio output a mono or stereo jack?
http://www.marcparnes.com/Visual_Alert.htm
He turned my R3 around fast and offers excellent support. The added pig tail was annoying at first, but now it’s no big deal. Its super bright and works wonders on the KTM!
Hello, I enjoy your website and have learned a lot of useful info. here. I own an r3 as of yesterday and have an idea that I think would be useful if you could pass it on to uniden for me. I know GPS has the ability to know the speed limits of the road you are travelling on. I know sometimes with construction and such is not accurate but none the less I think it would be awesome if they updated the firmware with the ability to automatically set “quiet ride” to the speed limit of the road that you are currently travelling on. This would be a great feature, you could set it to keep the detector quiet unless you are going over the speed limit. Do you think this could be achieved with just a firmware update, or would it not be possible? Thanks.
Author
It’s not a simple thing to do via a firmware update. You need a full map of the US with all the roads, not just a list of points of where the speed limits are. Escort Live does it because it has access to maps when running online and can pull the data that way without having to fill the detector with tons and tons and tons of mapping information. If Uniden adds Bluetooth one day and a cell phone app, they could do the same sort of thing, but it’d otherwise be a massive amount of information to add into the detector and I doubt it even has the memory to support that much information.
I am running a brand new R3 which i upgraded with 137 firmware. The BAT Saver is turned ON, yet the detector does not turn off in a powered outlet. I’ve checked it at 30, 60 and 90 minute intervals and it remains powered on. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Hi,
I just got my new R3 from Best Buy. I have 3 questions.
1. All of the videos i have seen show the name badge on top of the unit n chrome. Mine is matte black
2. Everything I’ve seen online including the manual that came with the unit shows 2 different windshield mounts.
Mine only has the single suction mount with the adjustable base.
3. What time frame does Uniden allow you to update the database for free? The manual does not say.
Just curious. Thank you.
Mike
Author
Best Buy has an exclusive matte black version of the R3. Same thing, just a different piece of plastic on top.
It should come with two mounts including the normal one which is a small piece of metal with two suction cups. Take a look back through your included accessories and doublecheck.
The updates are good for life. There is no subscription for them. Just download and update.
Hi Vortex,
I have been doing a lot… A LOT of researching on which radar to go with next. We both currently have Redline but I decided to buy the R3 and my brother did the same. We’ve had it for almost a week now and he’s told me that it’s been quiet for him.. Too quiet. We are here in Texas and I’m using the same settings listed above in advanced mode and we were traveling together in 2 separate cars this morning and a LEO was pointing a radar at me while I was going above speed limit. Both of our radars DID NOT go off (no laser, no KA) I was so lucky that I saw him and slowed down in time. He ended up pulling another car behind my brother over. My brother immediately returned his R3 but I’m still wanting to test it out but I am very disappointed.. Is it possible that police are using different radar systems that no one knows about? I’m going to change the segmentation to see if that helps. Thank you!
Author
They use normal Stalker radar guns in TX, K and Ka band. Nothing that fancy. It is very common for police to not be always transmitting radar while driving. This video explains things in more detail: https://youtu.be/Siv–_3eTxs They can also pull over vehicles based on visual estimation alone without having to use radar, they can follow a vehicle and match their speed and pull them over based on what their own speedometers is saying, and so on. If both of your radar detectors didn’t go off, he wasn’t transmitting radar.
I completely understand that but the disappointing fact is that he was obviously pointing a radar/ laser gun at us and nothing went off. I have a dash cam recording too and was wondering if it was a different system the officer was using or if it’s the settings….
Author
Did he have a handheld gun up to his eye? If so, he was using laser and it makes total sense that your radar detector didn’t alert. https://youtu.be/75fsXgZDdK0
Yes he did… And unfortunately nothing went off on both of our radars.. I immediately called my brother after and he confirmed.
Author
You got shot with laser. Watch the video I just linked you to so you can understand why your detector didn’t alert. After that, look into pairing a set of laser jammers to run alongside your radar detector.
I lived in the Dallas/Fort Worth area for 17 years. I saw way more LiDAR used there than radar. I would say LiDAR to radar use was 5 or 6 to 1 in the cities across Texas. As you stated, it’s very common for a detector to not alert if they hit you low on the vehicle with the beam.
The only ticket I ever got in Texas was from a local motorcycle officer running laser. All my detector did was tell me it was time to pull over and get out the wallet.
Thanks for your great site and videos. My 10 year old rock solid Bel V995 just gave up the ghost, so time to upgrade. Doing my research now to narrow my choice down and your info is invaluable!!
Keep it coming!!!!
Hi
I live in SF Ca and a lidar gun did not pick it up, so we went and talked to the cop and that’s how we found out he had lidar
Is there a setting I should be using
Thanks
Author
Radar detectors are not the right tool for lidar as you found. https://youtu.be/75fsXgZDdK0
hi ive purchased the uniden R3 great bit of kit
My question is ive updated the firmware and database is the DB worldwide or just the US
Many thanks
Author
Congrats! To my knowledge it’s only for the US and Canada. There is an Aus/NZ version database too, but you have to buy the NZ version specifically.
Love your articles and youtube videos. Keep up all the good work
Purchased a Uniden R3 – based on your videos. Coming from a V1 – so many features that I love with the R3, especially the GPS based features.
Question: I live in Washington State. In general, the settings you recommend work perfect for my area. I was traveling from Bellevue to Tacoma (I-5) and was getting a lot of hits on K-band. Are these Traffic Flow monitors ? If I turn on TFS – will that impact the performance of the unit.
Appreciate the feedback.
Author
We don’t have any traffic sensors up here so you won’t need to enable to TSF. Generally the falses you’ll see are going to be BSM falses caused by other nearby vehicles with radar-based collision avoidance systems and blind spot monitoring systems. Unfortunately every radar detector has to deal with those and there’s no detector that’s immune to them. If you get the same false alert in the same area every time you drive by, however, those are typically from automatic door openers in shopping centers along the highway and those you can lock out (hit the mute button twice) and the detector will remember those alerts and filter them out next time you come by. That works great for stationary falses, but against moving falses it’s tough.
Just got it today, made the settings and a long test ride while keeping my trusty Belltronics STi Magnum hooked up.
The R3 has some nice toy like features and it warned me from a red light camera, but the STi picked up signals not only earlier, it also stayed with them and didn’t fade in and out on the same source.
Also, with my STi I can tell quickly if its a cop or some false alarm. I have learned it well in the past 8 year (was updated once a couple years ago).
So far I don’t trust the R3. I can’t tell if its onto something or not. It goes off on a source, lets go again, comes back on. Its almost like it mutes itself all the time.
Not impressed so far. I will keep testing it for up to 30 days. If it keeps being wacko even with different settings I’ll return it. Not going to waste $400 on something that isn’t better in its core function over an almost 10 year old STi.
Author
Do not run two radar detectors at the same time because that will mess up your results. https://youtu.be/nxtBGUhwpBE
Also keep in mind that every radar detectors has its own sort of personality or language you need to get used to. If you’ve run one detector for a while, you’re going to get comfortable with the way it works. Switching to another radar detector may take a little getting used to so give it a little time like when you buy a new pair of shoes. 🙂
if I want to use it in Australia, but I bought mine in Asia(China) is there any update I need to do? or is the unit updateable to a different country? (do they sell the unit that has different spec adapted to a different country?)
Author
There is an Aus/NZ version, yes, with a database specifically for your area. I don’t know anything about purchasing it from China or how that works.
I’m confused by the segmentation feature of the R3 for the Ka band. I set the setting according to your recommendations, 2/5/8 (assuming they should be “on.” Is this to replace the Ka narrow setting?
Author
When you enable the Ka Segmentation feature, you then have the options for adjusting individual Ka segments. If you enable Ka Narrow instead of Ka Segmentation, it automatically sets up a 2/5/8-like setup for you.
Thanks so much. So the above being clarified, I can just set to Ka Narrow and I should be good? Based on your recommendation (R3 for you, Escort 360 for parents and siblings) I purchased the R3. I like it, but like many comments, it would be nice if the R3 had features like the 360 Max, i.e., arrows, GPS current speed limit displayed and so on.
Author
Yeah you should be fine with Ka Narrow. 🙂 I agree with you that it’d be great if the R3 had more bells and whistles. All the neverending search for the ultimate no-compromise detector. 😀
Do you know what would cause false laser alerts on the Uniden R3?
I am getting a LOT of laser alerts on I-5N in Shoreline area.
Every time it happens, there is no visible state patrol and nowhere for them to be hiding.
I just upgraded firmware, we’ll see if it keeps happening.
Author
Often times it’s your phone. Can your detector see it by chance? It does happen for some people and I’m not sure why. If you can’t figure it out, you can always disable laser detection on the R3 (not ideal, I know) and let your jammers handle everything since your R3 won’t help you avoid a ticket in the first place (its laser sensitivity is pretty poor and it can false quite a bit) while your jammers will actually help protect you from the ticket.
Also, aviation navigation aids around airports will sometimes set the laser alerts off. Is there a major airport close to the area where you get these alerts? If so, it may be their navigation equipment.
Just bought my Uniden R3. Thank you for taking the time to explain the programming steps.
Had a quick question!
I live in Oregon and frequent Washington. Will your personal settings be optimal for Oregon/Washington?
Author
Well I live in WA and drive down to Oregon periodically so… 😉
The only differences I guess will be things like how K band photo radar vans are used in Portland so if you’re there, you may want to be less aggressive on the K band settings. Maybe K band at 70% sensitivity in Advanced mode instead of running in City mode. Otherwise things should be very similar.
I purchased a rearview mirror mounting bracket from Amazon and had it installed for $95. The R3 really looks nice mounted just under the mirror. No wires hanging down in the interior cabin which is really nice.
Recently purchased an R1- love it and am already amazed at the range – snagged a Florida State Trooper running constant on KA at over 2 miles 🙂 That’ll work!
My question is about fancy settings- for example, if I disable K band, or enable segmented KA (2, 5,6 & 8), do these changes take effect only when set on Advanced mode, or Highway and City also?
Author
Those modes simply adjust K band sensitivity. Turning K band on or off or choosing how Ka segmentation works is independent of your K band sensitivity adjustments. 🙂
I love my new R3. I inadvertently created a Mark and cannot find how to delete it. Each time I drive to that marked spot, it makes an announcement. How do I delete it?
Just press MARK again when you are at the location and it should delete the user mark.
I had something strange happen this morning. Running the R3 on default settings, set on City cruising south of Sarasota on US41. A newer Suburban got close up behind me and my KA went crazy. All I could think of was that it was some of their tech. 20 seconds later it was off again. Not a fade-in and fade-out… but instant on then instant off. It’s quite possible there was some trooper somewhere that I didn’t see but…. any thoughts?
Author
Possibly a leaky radar detector inside that vehicle. Try enabling the Ka Filter if you haven’t already.
Thank you for your amazingly-fast response. I’ll try that.
Love you site. As a fellow Puget Sounder, I largely followed your settings on my R1. Today I noticed the detector has an error that displays “DSP Error: Host”. I’ll check for firmware updates after work but do you have any idea what a possible root cause of this error would be?
Author
Oh weird, I’ve never seen that error before. Maybe try doing a firmware update and use the Recover feature to fully load in the firmware again so it reloads the DSP software. If you see that error again, you should probably reach out to Uniden.
I’ve ended up choosing the R3 for most driving, with the Pro-M only when entering some of the new photo radar LP cameras.
In the NE corridor, incl up through Buffalo, Vortex’s setting are what I use with the addition of segment Ka 6 as I’ve seen 2 occasions of upward drift in NY. (I’d expect DOWNdrift–but these were def high)
Around town, I’ve also set Quiet Ride to 40, as it blocks out a LOT of annoying K falses.
Thanks!
Quick how to question. I inadvertently created a “user mark” and cannot seem to delete it. I’m using the cigarette lighter that has the mute/button. Every time I pass the “user mark”, it lets me know and it’s driving me nuts. Can you please specifically tell me how to delete it? For instance, as soon as the user mark announces itself, press and hold the cigarette lighter/mute button and hold for “x” seconds, etc. I think I tried everything to delete it with no success. Help…
Author
Reference the manual. I think it’s a double press of the mute button when the alert pops up. I’m not sure. There’s also an option in the menu to delete all user marks if you want as well.
Great site. Quick question. I was using the original blendmount before the undste on my R3 and now when I wanted to switch back to my uniden mount it won’t lock in. Is there a way to fix this?
I just bought the R3 based on your recommendation. Thanks. I’m trying to use the Mute Memory feature to mute a Ka band alert in my office building’s parking garage. The process laid out in the manual doesn’t work. Also, your Guide says that it will only mute an X or K band alert. Is that right? Do I have to listen to this alert every day?
Thanks!
Author
Correct. Lockouts only work for X and K band. However, in the next firmware update, there will be an option for lockouts on Ka band too.
Thanks. I think they should also create a speed sensitive alert threshold. In both places (parking garage and close to home), I’m well under 35 miles per hour.
For your R3, does this not fit that desire?
Quiet Ride (R3 Only)
Low speed muting. This automatically mutes any and all X band and K band alerts, whether they’re real alerts or false alerts, when traveling below the speed you select. This feature is incredibly valuable around town to help deal with false alerts.
No, not for Ka band alerts. I get them at the same locations all the time.
Any ETA on a firware update?
Author
Later today! 🙂
This is a follow-up to my recent question that you were good enough to respond to. I had mentioned that I had inadvertently pressed a user Mark in my R3 and was unable to remove it and you told me to (possibly) press the mute button twice or look in the directions. Pressing the mute button twice did nothing and there’s nothing in the instructions regarding removing a Mark and I scrolled through all of the choices on the R3 and none listed anything about a Mark. How can I delete the Mark? Please help. Thx, Steve
Per the manual on Page 8
User Mark. A User Mark is a manually taggedgeographic location where an alarm is usuallyfound. The R3 alerts when close to these UserMarks.
• Add – Press MARK when you are at the alarmlocation.
• Delete – Press MARK when you are at an alarm location that has been marked (Mute Mem displays)
• Delete All Marks – Press and hold MARK
Make sure you are at the actual marked location and not past it when you press mark
Bat Saver = On
I have a Tesla, and had to wire the R3 directly to the battery (with an added fuse). So the detector won’t turn off when I leave the car. I have the above setting set, where it should turn off after 30 minutes, however, this doesn’t work. Is this a bug, or am I doing something wrong?
Author
It should work when it detects you’re doing 0mph (parked) or it loses GPS altogether (you park in a parking garage). According to the manual, it requires you to be parked for an hour, not 30 min. Looks like I need to correct this post. Thanks!
Greetings,
I am disappointed with my R3 purchase.
It does not detect laser.
Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks
S
Author
Yes it does. It’s just not very sensitive. Even if it was, it doesn’t matter because it doesn’t help you avoid tickets from laser. See here for more info: https://youtu.be/75fsXgZDdK0 If you want protection against laser, you’ll want to invest in a laser jammer to complement your radar detector.
It’s simply a fact of life: as VORTEX and others have noted, when LEOs utilize lidar they typically throw a beam which–at it’s largest–may only be 8″ where it touches your vehicle. To make it more difficult, they often target a front or rear license plate, or head/tail light.
NO radar detector is likely to pick these up. A RL original VERY occasionally picked one up–but when I say rarely I mean perhaps 2X in 5 years.
I haven’t invested in dedicated laser protection yet, but unless/until I do—I don’t expect my RD to give any adequate (or any at all) warning for laser!
My old Beltronics V995 picked up LIDAR great; it let me know I needed to pull over to receive my ticket. LOL.
Haven’t encountered LIDAR yet with my R3, but as others have said, the beam is so narrow that you may not even get a notification when you are the target if the detector is mounted much higher than your front bumper and license plate where they usually are aiming.
THANKS for your excellent Youtube post on Installing the Firmware (R3, MAC), and also the post on setting up all the options & parameters. I am going to print out this, web page version, so I can use it in the car as I set up the R3 for the first time.
I was also trying to figure out which USB cable I needed to buy to connect to my computer. (Why they don’t provide one with the product, or at least specify in the “user manual”, I don’t know (:-) ) You nicely answered that question.
The User Manual, Uniden web Support pages provide VERY LITTLR info or Help. Your posts are really a major help!
Thanks Again!, Howard
Great update. Vortex! Thanks………………..
Per the linked website: Washington: 2/5/8: Segment 7 in Pierce County for a 35.2 Stalker ATR
If I choose Ka segment 7 and drive in other areas of WA, do I need to keep changing this back and forth each time I drive in and out of Pierce County?
Author
Nope. Just leave it enabled and don’t overcomplicate your life. Changing the setting will have virtually no impact to performance so just enable the segments you want to detect and you’re set.
For the new MRCD capability, can you have the K band off and the MRCD on if that’s the only threat in the 24 GHz range one needs to worry about in their area? I live near the Quebec border in New York. Daily threats for me are laser and KA band but I only live a few hours away from laser, ka, and MRCD areas I visit (nyc and Quebec).
Author
Good question. I’m not sure and can’t verify since I don’t have the MRCD in use around me. You can post on the forums and see what people say. https://www.rdforum.org/index.php?forums/169/
Can you update your R3 with just a mac without parallels or do you need that as I only have a Mac. Thanks
Author
There’s now Mac update software available. https://youtu.be/CGmSWJEQ1Xs
Love my R3, actually bought two, one for each car. Have you had any issues with the accessories breaking? My 12V adapter broke at the threaded part where you replace the fuse. I went ahead and bought the hardwire kit and pulled it out of the box and the fuse holder on it was broken. Seems they don’t realize that the fuse spring causes a pressure point and the plastic is too thin or did I just two lemons?
What is the device use to set off your radar detector is it just for laser looks like a keychain want to get one or does is easier thing that I want to the test out my radar detector like a remote control do you have for laser jammer read specially for radar detector and I’m thinking in the future of getting I have HP 905 blind there right now Enterprise leisure priority you said there is one of the best I live in New Jersey what would I need like that I wouldn’t have to be updating I can hear if it hits me from the bag from the front just to beat you know the basic that I’m covered and I don’t know how to put this together if you know somebody down here in New Jersey or New York But I was looking at that nice keychain you had when you set it off your radar detector Julie have one there you could test out each frequencies on the been on the radar detector if not can you tell me how to get rid of those little keychain is it that you had I think you sent the roof the laser but I like the little keychain are you think I should keep the blinds or HP 905 for New Jersey what are you think I should get the anti-per already laser and how would I set it up in what would I need I was trying to make it understand myself if you don’t need to update you get the mudroom yet in the bat you’re covered in the front and get it get the app and hook it up to you iPhone real a lot of stuff involved what would I have to do if I wanted to keep the ones I already have them in my car the blind or 905 HP would have to take them out or just can I use the bottom at the same time or what was I have the shot one off and leave one out thank you sir happy days given me a Christmas and happy new year like I said I live in New Jersey and give me an idea which way I can go and I wish you were to get the little keychain you got Anna I see another video kind of pretty like you take care
Have you heard of any problem with the uniden r3 not turning on sometimes? I have had the radar for six months and all of a sudden it will not turn on. In the past two weeks it has turned on two times .
Just updated firmware! I can’t wait to see if I get results on my upcoming road trip from Chicago to New Orleans this week!!!
I haven’t seen anywhere with the Uniden R3 that allows me to save user settings like Detector Tools does (for BEL GX65); or an interface that allows the user to program the R3 through their computer – like Detector Tools does. Do you think Uniden will develop something like this? Is there something like this? Would be nice.
I’ve had the R3 for about 6 months now and I love it! Your videos really helped me decided for the best radar I’ve ever used (speaking as a devoted BEL user since 1986)
Thank you.
I never see any reviews of K-40 radar products. Do you have any experience with them?
Vortex,
Just wanted to thank you and everyone else with all the info regarding the R1/R3. Just ordered the R1 from B/B for $205 (tax included). I remembered the video about the Black Friday sale ???.
After reading all the questions I REALLY have to hand it to you. Almost everything has already been answered in detail if they would only read.
This detector renewed my interest in running a new one! Thanks again!!
Hi
I have a Escort 9500ci (from 2014) built into my car but I am buying a new car. I need to decide, do I pay to have it removed and reinstalled into my new car or do I buy radenso pro m vs uniden r3?
I liked my built in escort as false alarms where minimal. Im looking for great range detection w/o false alarms. So that I do not start ignoring the alerts…
Which option will give me best performance?
1. reinstall escort?
2. Radenso
3. Uniden
Thanks,
Alex
Author
The Radenso Pro M will do a better job of filtering out blind spot false alerts. https://geni.us/ProM-VR
If you’d like to maintain your custom installed experience, get the Radenso RC M. https://bit.ly/2ys4zLA
I wouldn’t recommend using the 9500ci in this day and age unless you’re a big fan of false alerts. :p
Hi! Got a noob question. Any ideas on what frequencies/bands to set up for in Wayne County Michigan. Just bought a Uniden R3. I tried going on the site RDforum.org but the RDFGS page isnt coming up. HELP!
Author
https://www.rdforum.org/index.php?threads/59672/
Hi Vortex,
I finally took the plunge over Black Friday and picked up a Uniden R3 thanks to your reviews and comparisons with some other models that I have been thinking about for a long time such as Valentine One. Can you suggest what settings I should run? Should I go ahead with the general settings you recommended above? Is there some sort of settings that I should prioritize over some others?
To provide a little background, I live in rural PA about an hour outside of Philadelphia. I also travel frequently up and down the east coast from Lake Placid, NY to Orlando, FL. I also visit MD, VA, and DC frequently. I know that radar detectors are illegal in VA, but any other recommendations you have for settings would be helpful! I plan to keep MCRD on as well per your suggestion, but anything else?
Author
Congrats! For local info, you can always head over to the forum and get some info from other drivers who are also in those areas. I’m on the west coast so all my knowledge is really based on what others share. https://www.rdforum.org/index.php
Would I be able to Velcro the r1 or r3 to a windshield? I am thinking for motorcycling. Would that negatively affect performance?
Just a heads up for those interested in picking up an R1 either for themselves or as a present- BestBuy has dropped the price for their R1BBY version down to $179 from the Black Friday price of 199. I grabbed one for The Wife, and at that great price I almost feel bad for paying the full retail $299 for mine back in July… If you’re even close to pulling the trigger on an R1, this is a “don’t miss it” price for sure!
Thanks for all the info on the R3. I just purchased one, but it hangs at a slight up angle in my windshield with the smaller double suction cup mount. Any idea if this will affect the accuracy of the detector?
Author
You can bend the mount to ensure the detector is straight and level. It’s designed to be bent, depending on the angle of your windshield. It’s best to bend it without the detector mounted so that you don’t break anything in the detector itself. Just bend it, reattach the detector, check the angle, and rinse and repeat until you’re happy. 🙂
This is my first experience researching and purchasing a detector. I was a bit intimidated or rather discouraged to start reading and comparing due to the endless choices and features available… I ended up buying the Uniden R3 and upon receipt, again, ignorant on all features and options… So instead of starting to study the manual, I searched for reviews and videos and bumped into yours. It has been a true blessing! Your video is maybe lengthy and crammed with info but the delivery and presentation, together with the simple comparison on/off list made it a breeze to set mine up. Thank you very, very much for all the research, product info, video, consolidated option lists etc… I’m not sure whether your are remotely sponsored or compensated by these companies but I think you definitely should! I have two questions that I wasn’t able to clarify:… Q1: Can the Uniden be mounted sideways? I meant rotated 90º from its original intent? Not sure whether that would affect the field of detection… going horizontally or not… Q2: on one other model I tested, it indicated where the signal came from (front/back arrows) is this something I can determine with the R3 or is that to be neglected? Thanks again! Your website, YouTube vids etc are an amazing source of info and your passion is appreciated! Vladi (Audi S5 – Chipped 🙂
Author
Thanks! I’m not sponsored by any of the companies. I do make a percentage of the sale if you happen to buy through a site like Amazon and I’m supported by private sessions and Patreon supporters, but my goal is always to share the best information possible. 🙂
So as far as sideways mounting, good question. That’s something people do abroad for certain linearly polarized guns, but that’s not something we need here in North America where the R3 is designed to be used.
Arrows can’t be added to the R3 until they come out with a new detector that has an additional rear facing antenna. https://youtu.be/Pf6JLd16kWM
Thank you for your speedy reply! Copy on the directional detection… regarding the mounting angle… I realize I wasn’t clear the way I asked… My bad… I meant, does it affect it in a less performing way if I mount it rotated 90º÷ It’s just for available space on my dash that I was forced to mount it like that and wasn’t sure that it would limit my detection chances by doing so that the ‘pie slice’ it detects is rotated? The 2 mounts that came with the unit only allow a hanging mount… I like to use the suction cup in a way it’s mounted on the back of my display on the dash, which is reversed… I wish it had that option… So, is it not recommended to mount it 90º or does it not matter? Thanks again!
Author
Yes angle of mounting matters. Leave it pointed straight and level the way it’s designed. Don’t rotate it 90 degrees or point it off in any weird direction. Here’s more technical information if you want it, especially regarding intentionally rotated mounts used internationally. http://www.escortradarforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1112
Hi I just purchased the Uniden R3. Can you possibly help with the correct settings for my location I Reside in Modesto CA but I work in the Bay Area. If you charge a fee let me know so I can customize my radar detector. Thanks
Author
Hey Ricky, you can always book a private session with me (link at the top of the website), but in this situation you’re probably better off asking people in your area. There’s already plenty of discussion on this topic here: https://www.rdforum.org/index.php?forums/32/
Thank you for keeping this updated after newer software updates!
Hey Vortex!
I have watched problem every single one of your videos regarding Uniden products and decided to go with the R1 to start as I got it for an amazing deal and it seems like an amazing radar for the low price. The radar will be here tomorrow and I read through this article and saw your settings and general settings for the R3, but was wondering if those settings would be the same for the R1 minus the GPS settings that aren’t available. I would really appreciate it if you could post the settings that you would recommend for the R1 if they are indeed different. Thanks for your time and dedication to making amazing reviews and videos and I look forward to your response!
Author
You got it. The R1 is the same as the R3 so the GPS based features (marked as R3 only) won’t apply to you with the R1. Otherwise everything else still applies.
Great! Thank you for your quick response and thank you again for all this info. I honestly couldn’t have made the correct/best radar purchase without all of the help from your videos and website. I am extremely excited and confident to get my Uniden R1 radar up and running tomorrow now!!
I just recently purchased Uniden R3 I need help setting it up for my area can you please help
Thank you very much for your tutorial. I have set up my detector to these specs and have been very satisfied. It picks up Ka radar from such a distance that I put it on mute because the chirping goes on forever until I reach the radar!
I have two questions. First, my K band goes off constantly on the highway around other cars. All are false alarms. How can I dial back the sensitivity without the risk of an alert being positive?
Secondly, I live in NJ and see the appropriate Ka segmentation to keep on and off. If I turn on/off the ones that are recommended for NJ, do I run the risk of an off Ka signal being positive for radar? My Ka is rarely false, so should I leave them all on, or is it worth dialing it into the recommended setting for NJ.
Thank you for your time and wonderful, educational website.
Wow!!!! What a fantastic and in-depth review.!!! I’m impressed and wish you did this for all products. That’s one heck of a lot of work to help the guys like us 🙂
The one thing I don’t understand is everything I have read and researched says to leave the POP off which begs the question then what exactly is the purpose of it and when should it be put on? Seems like a useless mode ?
Author
It’s mostly a marketing checkbox. Like laser detection, it may not be useful in practice, but everyone else can do it so they might as well do it too.
And lightning fast responses to your commenters as well as great articles!!! This is literally an unbelievable great job at genuinely helping others make the right choice!
If you and your company were looking to succeed, you have exceeded at success IMO and I would say you have reached the ultimate level to which ALL other companies should try to achieve!!!
GREAT JOB!!!
When you set up the r3 and change settings is this just in advanced mode and city and highway stay what the factory set. Or do you change all modes individually.
Author
Most of the settings are completely unaffected by Highway/City/Advanced mode. All that does is let you adjust the overall sensitivity of the detector.
I have two questions. First, my K band goes off constantly on the highway around other cars. All are false alarms. How can I dial back the sensitivity without the risk of an alert being positive?
Secondly, I live in NJ and see the appropriate Ka segmentation to keep on and off. If I turn on/off the ones that are recommended for NJ, do I run the risk of an off Ka signal being positive for radar? My Ka is rarely false, so should I leave them all on, or is it worth dialing it into the recommended setting for NJ.
Author
You can dial back the K band sensitivity using Advanced mode. This affects both real and false alarms. The K Filter is your primary tool to help filter those out. No detector can filter them all out.
As for Ka segments, there’s always a potential risk of out of tune guns. There’s some in NY so people run additional segments (info is on the forums if you need it), but I haven’t heard people needing additional segments for NJ.
Just how much real world impact does using Ka segmentation have? I mean, clearly it’s a measurable impact or we wouldn’t be discussing it, but, really, I’m guessing we talking portions of a second?
I don’t mean to be a downer or anything- this is clearly a good thing to do, and as far as I can tell it’s highly recommended if you can be sure about the data for your area, and adjust accordingly when traveling. I’m just curious…
Author
Huge difference for older detectors like the Redline and V1. Less of a difference for the digital Unidens. No difference for the digital Max360c or MaxCi360. There’s plenty of testing on the forum if you’d like to learn more.
Great info…I’ve had the R3 about 2 years…tremendous performance! A small issue… My detector shows the right time…but the AM/PM is incorrect and I don’t see adjustment…help appreciated!!!
Author
Doublecheck to make sure you have the proper time zone set.
Bought the Uniden R1 due to your advice and website comments from others. Appreciate all the information and advice on your site. Very happy with my purchase and the advance warning the R1 provides. Typical distances of 125 miles in the mountains or flatlands with limited cities in between make it a necessity. Agree with majority of the R1 settings. Thanks!
I just did the firmware update and it updated to 1.48. Do you have any suggestions for setup? Or keep it like you suggested for the 1.46 update? I use your settings.
Author
I don’t believe any settings were added or removed with 1.48. So these settings will all work well too. I updated the note about the latest firmware available. Thank you! 🙂
Thank you for the very detailed and precise descriptions of the radar detectors .it helped me know which one was best for me. I picked the uniden r3 and I couldn’t be more pleased
my r3 only has ka narrow and wide, there is no segment option, i updated 1x and again now that second update is out. still only ka narrow and wide options. olease help?
I’m having the same issue, did u fixed it?
He answers this further down. I will copy his comment.
“You need to enable it. Switch from Ka Wide or Ka Narrow to Ka Segmentation and then you’ll see the individual segments show up.”
I did this and the segmentation does show.
How in the world did Uniden skip over the arrows option front, back, left and right? I’ve used the R3 on a road trip MN – Vegas – CA. Hands down better range than the V1. 1 – 10 sec adv warning compared to V1.
Author
Left and right. There are no radar detectors that tell you left and right because that would require two more antennas pointed left and right. “Side” arrows really means that front and rear signal strength is very similar or the same. There are no true left and right side arrows anywhere.
Well yes, no compelling reason to incorporate left / right antennas. Not sure of your knowledge of all the top R.D. out there? So far, I’ve read the R3 is top dog in range aspect both on and off axis. Road trip confirmed that driving out west. Not sure if its really worth selling my V1 for areas that don’t have more than a 3 miles straight away?
In the YouTube vid you use a small laser fob to simulate an alert. Where did you get that? Awesome guide and thanks!
Author
Yeah sure, I use this one: https://bit.ly/1Qe3vKR
Using a UnidenDFR9. Page 27 of manual recommends updating firmware and database periodically. Go to http://support.uniden.com and check for latest firmware. How do I see to it that the updates are made to the unit?
Author
You can check the current firmware version in the menu. If there’s a newer version on Uniden’s website, download and update.
I recently bought a R3 came with 1.48 installed, the thing is I don’t have ka segmentation. Do you know why?
Author
You need to enable it. Switch from Ka Wide or Ka Narrow to Ka Segmentation and then you’ll see the individual segments show up.
I just wanted to say thanks as well. User Manual doesn’t go into NEARLY as much detail. I was beginning to think this was too much detector for me (my daily commute is only about 15 miles), but maybe this will help me tame the R3 beast. I do kinda miss the auto-learn feature of my Escort 360. I am always hesitant to lock out a signal unless I am 100% positive. Thanks again, Vortex!
Issue with auto-learn in blocking false alarms, is the block feature needs to pin-point the exact GPS position by the foot, not the general facinity of 100, 200, or 300 ft. Cops use these alarms to their adv now and then to radar targets driving by.
Author
That sounds good in theory, but in reality, you’ll pick up the signal at different distances from day to day depending on traffic blocking or reflecting the signal, what direction you’re approaching the signal from, and so on, so you need to create an area where the lockout is located. If there’s a second signal, the detector or app looks at the frequency and location, plus sometimes some additional factors, and makes a determination of if should be locked out or alerted to as well.
Thanks a bunch i am a first time radar guy and i was looking at many detectors and after your review I went with the R3 great choice it does everything i hoped for first run saved my pockets some pain your tutorial was right on the $$$ and make everything so simple thanks again
Thanks for the detailed write up and set up guide! I was leaning towards the Escort iX, but then the iXc came out. But, I didn’t want to spend that much. I read this review and saw a deal pop for $275 for this R3 and I pulled the trigger. No more false signals like I was constantly getting from my Bel RX65! That detector served me well, and saved me countless times, but I very much wanted the newer filtering and longer range these newer ones have.
I had my RX65 hard wired and thankfully the R3 uses the same plug! I also had a rear view mount for my RX65 and was able to take the suction cups off the windshield mount that came with the R3 and screw that onto the same bracket, but it’s much too bouncy due to the pathetic material used. I immediately ordered a new Blendmount for my car, so I’m praying that gives me the same solid, no bounce I had with my RX65.
You’re correct in the amazing distance in which this thing picks up a signal! On my way home from work yesterday I picked up a Ka alert and it went on so long and strong that I was convinced the cop was behind me! I drove for what seemed like forever only to see that sneaky bugger hiding in the center divider, underneath a bridge. I just grinned as I drove on past.
I will admit that I like the sleeker look of the iXc, and their magnetic mount is clearly better than what Uniden offers, but I got phenomenal performance for a fraction of the cost. I also get updated firmware and they are still providing them! Escort doesn’t seem to do that very often even though they have the ability. Paired with Waze I also get more cop alerts than their Live app will ever provide.
So, thank you again for such a great, thorough write up! I don’t drive like a mad man, but do keep it 10-15 over on my daily commute, and I like knowing if a Trooper is hiding somewhere trying to make my rates go up! I haven’t had a ticket in many years and hopefully things stay that way. Cheers, and keep up the great work!
thanks for all your help with the r1/r3 setup for extreme distance. I see there is a LTI 20/20 TRUVISION LIDAR GUN IN USE which has a smaller bandwith than regular lidar
https://www.lasertech.com/LTI-20-20-TruSpeed-Laser-Speed-Gun.aspx
would you buy and test or sell the STAR LASER STAR PRO ?
https://www.radar-detectors.co.uk/product/laser-star-pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNmPUX-Aa04 – it jams them all looks like.
Author
Isn’t the Laser Star Pro one of the knock-offs of an older AntiLaser jammer? https://www.rdforum.org/index.php?threads/19942/page-2#post-266696 I don’t generally recommend those.
Hi, couple of years ago I purchase Redline after talking to you. And I am very satisfied with it. But it became very very nosy to drive with it . It response to everything around my car. Do you think R3 will be a good replacement ? ( Or may be R1 since i am using Waze anyway.) If I understand you correctly R1 have no GPS, so it has no location alert for cameras and all GPS furthers.
Thank you for your time and hard work. It is really means a lot to the community.
I drive in NY and often to upstate NY. Thank you.
Thanks for the detailed instructions. I live in SFO bay area just bought the uniden R3, running with the following config and latest Firmware, DSP and DB versions,
Advanced: k 30% sensitivity, k wide and k filter on. I am very much annoyed with the false k alerts (blind spot alerts from other nearby vehicles). Worried of changing the mode to city (K sensitivity 10%/-15 db) or to k Narrow and caught up in city limits. Please advise.
Missed the following settings Quiet Ride: 35mph , auto mute on;vol 1; It may not be relevant even TSM:on. Still too many K false alerts 🙁
In general will this unit still get firmware attention? or will all goto the R7 now….Hope not as I like my R3!!!
Author
It just received another update recently to firmware 1.50. https://www.vortexradar.com/2019/07/k-block-uniden-r1-r3-firmware-update-150/
Do you know what are the changes for the new FW 1.50 on the Uniden R3
Author
Yep. You can read over them here. https://www.vortexradar.com/2019/07/k-block-uniden-r1-r3-firmware-update-150/
Hey Vortex,
Great review on the R3. Question. Is there a visor mount I can buy for the R3? Because in NY and NJ (where I mostly drive), windshield mounts are illegal. I don’t understand why Uniden provides TWO windshield mounts with the R3 but no visor mount. Don’t they know windshield mounts are illegal in most States?
Thanks.
Windshield mounts are illegal in MN too, I have never heard of once someone or me getting pulled over for such a thing. Mount the detector at the very top, there should be no issue in either NY or NJ
You should probably update the settings on this post, since the new firmware includes different options.
Thanks.
Author
This guide has already been updated for the latest firmware, 1.50 at this time. Is there something that I missed? Could you please be specific?
1.50 trashed my R3. Voice is garbled and I lost my GPS completely. Yes, I uninstalled and reinstalled using the latest links, using reset each time. Someday, when I have 2 hours to kill in the middle of the day (and I’m not at work), I’ll call Uniden support.
Vortex,
It would be amazing to have a setting to alert you only when you are a certain speed over the speed limit, using the gps. No?
Vortex.. Picked up an R3 off your site/review with BRD. Quick question for you.. I’ve noticed in the past couple days that with “Quiet Ride” enabled and set to 30mph — I can be sitting stationary at a traffic light and have the detector signal a K band in the area for one blip, and then it will be quiet. I’m on the current 1.50 firmware. Any idea why it would do that?
I’ve upgraded from the LRD950 (originally off your advice several years ago.) It didn’t behave like this.
Appreciate all you do in the community!
I just found the answer in the manual for those looking for the same answer:
“QUIET RIDE
This function mutes X and K band radar alarms when you drive under a speed limit set in this menu (up to 90 mph/140 km/h). If X or K band signals are detected, the unit beeps once in volume level one and then goes to volume level zero. Q-Ride flashes in green on the OLED.”
Not exactly the behavior that I would like, but at least I understand why it is doing it now.
Excellent setting advice for the R3 thru 1.50. I’ve went from constant alarms to just valid occasional alarms in SoCal now. It’s so nice. Thank you!
Wow! A great write-up. I seen that it was a few years old, figured I’d check the comments for updates and was happy to see all the questions and answers.
Thanks again!
Dows the R3 detect lidar
Author
It’s not very sensitive at detecting lidar, but yes it’s capable. As I’ve said many many times though, a radar detector is the wrong tool to protect you against laser. That’s what laser jammers are for.
hey Vortex man I have the R3 towards passenger side of my windshield, and I would include a note for your viewers that you could mute your radar detector from the from the cigarette lighter. Double mute works there too. I thank you for all you do
I just updated my R3 to the new firmware version 1.50….do you still recommend the same settings as your original writeup? Thank you in advance.
Hi, merry Christmas, what do you think the best options is for nyc and not ny its self i have the r3, like i drive around Manhattan,bronx,brooklyn
Thanks man!
Just curious as to why drifting Stalker units are being found only in New York?
Author
They’re found all over. There’s just a lot more of them found in NY for whatever reason.
Thank you for such a informative website. I attended the P.C.A. meeting at Lake Washington and picked up a R3 just after. Thanks again for all the help in making a informed decision.
Author
Congrats and thanks for coming! 🙂
Hi Mr Vortex Radar – great site and Youtube channel, thanks so much, and all the best to your family!
As per a poster above…. I too just updated my R3 to the new firmware version 1.50….do you still recommend the same settings as your original writeup? Thanks!
Author
Roger that!
I my recently updated (thanks to your tutorial) R3 picked up a MRCD signal in Raleigh, NC 8 May 2020. Do you have info on those now being used in NC?
Author
I haven’t heard of anyone confirming they’re in use there yet. It might be, but also keep in mind that unfortunately, MRCD falses are fairly common. I see MRCD falses here in WA even though we don’t have the actual guns here, for example.
Hi, I watch your R3 tutorial and have a question. You gave a list of recommended settings which I did. Are these setting only effecting the Advanced mode? Do the City and Highway modes keep their original settings.
Thanks
Author
The only thing Advanced Mode does is give you the ability to individually adjust the sensitivity of each band. Highway runs it as 100% sensitivity and City reduces X and K band sensitivity to the lowest option while still running Ka at max sensitivity. That’s it.
Great info, just got my R3 today after seeing how poorly the Redline 360c fared in your testing. This along with Escort Live app subscription seems to be a better deal & still get the cloud alerts from that & Waze. I live in Western WA like you do, but I really want to know if running Ka Narrow and K Narrow as you recommend is really safe to do? I don’t want to get the settings wrong, so pls confirm. Thanks again for all your GREAT videos! You make it easy to understand & I really appreciate it!
Author
Yeah Ka and K Narrow are fine out here. Congrats on the R3!
Just mentioning a great review!
I just updated my R3 to the 1.53 and did the factory reset. Wondering…do you still recommend the same settings as the original write up? Thank you so much for helping us all along on this.
Can anyone tell me whether the R3 audio outlet is stereo or mono. A few of us are having problems with the audio when passing through a sena SR10. Either patchy or not at all??
Hey Vortex. I just bought the R3, as it sounded like the R3 and R7 were basically the same, except for arrows. The R7 is selling for $500 right now and the R3 was $230.
I am having the “trouble” that you mentioned with the software download. My firmware is not up to date, and I am getting a lot of false alerts. (More than my Betronics GX65 that the R3 is replacing.) I’m able to download and open the software, and have the latest database file downloaded, but it will not recognize the R3. It just says “Searching…”
I’m on a Windows machine. Windows recognizes the new device and loads the drivers.
I have tried it both with and without the detector plugged in to the 12V.
I’m going to return this to Amazon, if I can’t get this database downloaded. I really like the detector, but I really think the update will take care of a lot of false alarms.
Nevermind. User error. I watch your video on updating the firmware and I didn’t do the drivers. The 1st time I plugged it into the laptop, it appeared to load drivers for the newly found device, and i thought that was enough.
Anyway, i was able to download the firmware and the most recent database, HOWEVER, when I plugged the radar in and went to the settings, it said I’m only on 1.53, not 1.54. I’m going to have to try it again tomorrow, before our 2 1/2 hour drive to the beach.
So far, I am still seeing a lot more false alarms than my GX65, just driving around town, but maybe using the GX65 and manually locking out signs has made it more quiet than the R3. I might run them side-by-side tomorrow!
Hello
i just bought this detector and your video was great.
you have probably answered this a million times, but which USB cable type is this? i need to buy one,
many thanks
I have a new Subaru and due to the eyesight system they don’t want anything on the windshield or to far forward on the dash. If I mount this on the dash am I losing anything as far as sensitivity or distance? Thanks. Great info on your site!
I have Uniden R3 and am very happy with it. I want to mount a radar to my motorcycle, so I am looking to buy another. Some use a loud speaker to warn, some use flashing lights. My helmet is blue tooth capable, so I hear my phones music, phone calls, waze directions, etc. Is there an app to send the radar warning to my phone and then I would hear it through bluetooth?
Are there now (several years later) additional (the rest of the) time zones added, since I plan on using the detector outside the continental US? (Europe)
Can the R3 be cordless?
Author
Nope, you must plug it in to power.
Hey Vortex Just a quick question about my R3. So today I was driving on highway here in centeral Florida. My radar pick up a police really far away which is good around 10 secs later I mute it. About 10 mile after passed that first police there was other police siting on the side of highway pointing his radar gun on coming traffic. But this time my R3 didnt pick it up. Do you know why it does that? My setting was your recommended setting. Thank you!
hey vortex
is there a way to run the r3 with out it coming on when I start the car? I would like to turn it on when I need it with the power button ,thanks Andy [email protected]
Yes, just unplug it until you need to use it. Simple.
Two suggested changes for the R3. 1) For the speed + compass area, flip the axis so it reads left to right, not up down. Reason: there is more room left to right than top to bottom so it would allow bigger fonts and easier readability, especially for people over 40 who tend to have poorer close vision. 2) Regarding dark mode: add a day and night setting to allow a dim/dimmer setting at night. Some people would want to use dark mode all the time for either stealth or protection from screen burn-in. This way they can get a bright alert in the day time and a dim or dimmer alert at night.
FYI I just got a brand new (not refurbished) R3 direct from Uniden and the firmware rev. is 1.59. It also wouldn’t let me “downgrade” to 1.54.
I thought the update process was in the manual, it’s not. So, does the USB cable powers the unit or do I need the laptop in the car?
Also, I live in Puerto Rico, a US Territory, is it included in the database?
Author
You need to plug the radar detector into your computer via USB to update. The RD is only powered by the power cable, not over USB. This video shows you the update process. I don’t know about Puerto Rico in the database, sorry.
The updater v2.05 did everything with one click; it’s under Firmware in the Support site.
GPS went on and all seems fine.
Now to go over settings.
Is the “Mute Mem” feature common only to the R3? I don’t have this setting in my R1. If so, can you add the “R3 Only” in parantheses next to the feature? Thanks,